Making Bacon

Making Bacon

I love words. On any given occasion, I will fail to find the right ones, but for the most part I love them. My three favorite words? “Do It Yourself.”

Maybe it’s a guy thing, but there’s a reason Home Depot and LOWES are as popular as they are. There is a great sense of accomplishment that comes with the words “I did it myself.”

There are some things I’m not very DIY savvy with, however. Car repair is one. I’d love to be adept at working on my own car. But I found out early on in my life that I sucked at it so badly, there was no question that I was looking at a future of shelling out a lot of my hard earned cash to a mechanic for the rest of my life.

Here’s an example of one such lesson. When I was in college, I tried to save money by rebuilding the carburetor of a car I could hardly afford to put gas in. Carburetors – remember those? I discovered that a rebuild kit would cost me $120 less than a replacement. Fantastic. How hard can that be? It even came with instructions.

When I was done rebuilding that thing I had 12 parts left over, and my car idled at 1200 RPMs. That was the end of me working on my own cars forever – save for oil changes and spark plug replacements.

Play to your strengths.

When it comes to home repair, gardening, and cooking – I’m a DIY wunderkind. So when I recently found out that making your own bacon at home was not only possible, but relatively simple, I was all over it. That’s a custom-made DIY situation.

I’d just purchased Michael Ruhlman’s book “Charcuterie” before we left for our vacation to Sonoma, where (as I discussed in Episode 45 of my podcast) I discovered Black Pig Meat Company and the secret to really good bacon – pork belly from free-range, humanely raised pigs, some simple curing salts, brown sugar, smoke, and patience.

Reading Ruhlman’s instructions on making bacon made the whole process seem simple. The hardest part would be waiting for the curing process to finish. The idea of 7-10 days in the cure before I could actually smoke the finished belly seemed harder than the first time I brewed beer. But when I thought about it, that took 4-6 weeks. This would be a walk in the Pork Park.

There were two things I had to do first: find a source for the best possible pork belly, and order the necessary curing salts. Ruhlman recommended a few places, one of which was sausagemaker.com. I ordered the pink salt (absolutely necessary for bacon), a few other items for future sausage making projects, and gave myself the week it would take for the curing salts to arrive to find a source for good pork belly.

The search did not take long.

Only a handful of days later, a visit to my local Asian market ended up golden. I mean, I hit pay dirt. There in the meat counter lay slabs of pork belly – and not just pork belly, but Black Pork Belly. I was happy just to find whole uncut belly, but this slab was thick, meaty, and had a nice big layer of fat on the outside of it.

It looked like this:

Black Pork Belly

When the salts arrived, I followed the instructions in Ruhlman’s book and made a large batch of basic dry cure. Since I only needed about 1/4 cup to rub all over this belly, I saved the rest for future bacon making.

Basic Dry Cure

I’m not giving any recipes here. That’s taking money out of Ruhlman’s pocket, and I’m not about to do that. I highly suggest purchasing his book. It’s a wealth of information, and if you really want to do this right, his book is the bible. I’m taking a page out of Ryan’s blog “Head To Tail at Home” where he fails to share Fergus Henderson’s recipes, because he doesn’t feel it’s the right thing to do. I agree with Ryan. Buy the book. It’s not that expensive.

So, according to Ruhlman’s directions, I rubbed the cure all over the belly, then rubbed an additional 1/4 cup of brown sugar over it too (because I wanted my bacon to taste kind of sweet, like me) and placed it in a ZipLoc bag.

Curing Belly

This might look a little low-tech, but Ruhlman says a ZipLoc bag is perfect because it allows you to keep the cure on the meat at all times during the curing process. As the meat cures, it exudes all of its moisture. This mixes with the cure and becomes a curing solution. Once I placed it in the refrigerator, I would visit the belly every morning before work, and turn the bag over, so the cure was being evenly distributed constantly. This is called “overhauling.” That’s shop-talk for us bacon making pros.

While we’re on the subject, last week I overhauled several bottles of Belgian beer, but that’s a whole other Oprah.

How do you know when the belly’s done? Seven days after entering the cure, you press your finger into the thickest part of the belly. If it’s hard, it’s done. If it feels like the center of John Daly’s belly, give it another day or two. I waited a full 10 days, because Ruhlman said no more than 9 and I’m a rebel like that.

Once removed from the brine, you completely rinse the belly, dry it completely, and get it ready for smoking.

Pre-smoked belly

I wedged it right in the center of a smoking rack I use for chickens and other feathered animals lucky enough to meet my smoker. I didn’t want grill marks on it, and I don’t have a smoker that allows me to hang things in it. One day, but not on this day.

Apple WoodRuhlman wrote that you can put the belly in the oven if you don’t have a smoker. But if you do have a smoker, apple wood is the best choice for bacon. I love the flavor apple wood gives light meats like pork, so I bought an entire bag of chunks. I needed a low and slow heat, because I didn’t want it to cook too quickly, so I used a low heat source and kept a steady stream of apple wood burning. If you’re using an oven, you can get away with a higher heat source, but when you’re smoking, you want the process to take longer, so you don’t over cook the outside of the belly. For this reason, I keep the heat very low through the entire process.

You need to heat the belly to an internal temperature of 150 degrees. I knew it was getting close when it started to bronze like this:

Smoked Belly

Eventually, my instant read thermometer hit the sweet spot.

150 degrees - money shot

I took it off the smoker, allowed it to cool, and dropped it into another ZipLoc bag and let it cool over night before slicing. Man, the makers of ZipLoc make a killing on me. I use them for everything.

The next day when I took the smoked belly out to slice it, it felt dense and smelled fantastic. It was a big, smoked chunk of porky love.

Pre-sliced bacon

You know, I have great knives. I spend good money on knives, and even have a few great knives that have been given to me. I keep them very sharp and always protected. But even the sharpest knife the in the world could not make this job easy. It was a little tough slicing this belly into actual bacon slices, but it was definitely worth it.

sliced bacon

I’d like to think a meat slicer was in my future, but I’m running out of counter space in my kitchen as it is. Better just keep those knives sharp.

The moment of truth was upon me, so I fried up a slice of my very first home-cured bacon.

Cooking bacon

To say it was delicious would be doing it an injustice. Again, sometimes I fail to find the right words to use. Let’s say it was astounding. It had just the right amount of smoke, not too much. It certainly didn’t taste overbearingly smoky like the liquid smoke-injected slabs you find in the grocery store. The brine was perfect too. It wasn’t dominated by sodium in any way, but you can certainly taste it. It was perfect. It tasted like a perfect piece of bacon.

And it was, because I did it myself. Does it hold a candle to Black Pig Meat Company’s bacon? I don’t think so, but it’s a pretty damned good replication of what good bacon is supposed to taste like.

Next? More bacon, of course. Then, I’ll venture into the world of dry cured salumi. I’ll try Salami, Pepperoni, and Spanish Chorizo.

You want to do this too, don’t you? Here are some resources:

“Charcuterie” by Michael Ruhlman
Sausage Maker
Nose To Tail At Home, Ryan’s awesome blog

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27 Comments

  1. Fu*king GLORIOUS!!!!

  2. I think I need a few moments alone with this post…. Awesome Phil…. I was originally going to do that with my Berkshire hog belly but it cam sliced booo… Awesome though….

    • Thanks Scott.

      When I got home and looked up “Black Pork” on the internet, several sources claimed that it was another name for Kurobuta or Berkshire. I had my doubts that I could land quality pork belly like that given that I only paid around $4 a pound (I thought if I ever found something that treasured, I would pay at least $9 a pound).

      Great piece of belly, I’ll tell you that much. I’m going for round two soon. Also, making Italian Sausages this week. Ruhlman’s book is the bomb.

  3. Stunning!!! I feel like righting a Bacon poem now!!!

    • Thanks Afaf! You should definitely write that poem. 🙂 I envision a series of poems about bacon by Edgar Allan Pork.

  4. Stunning!!! I feel like writing a Bacon poem now!!!

  5. “That’s shop-talk for us bacon making pros.”

    Oh listen to you. You make one slab and now you’re an expert. *haha*

    ironic you post this, I was at a homebrew beer fest over the weekend and one of the prized selections was a maple syrup ESB which was code named “French Toast”. from the first drink I said “you need this with bacon.” The brewer looked at me and said “Actually, I originally made this for a bacon fest!” Phil, make this beer.

    Side note for ya. When i was 14/15 I was working for a butcher shop back home and we made our own bacon. I didn’t think much of it at the time but now I realize what all the bags were for. There was nothing more sinful than bacon as it comes out of the smoker before it cools.

    I’ll call you from Wholey’s and we can meat shop over the phone.

    • Thanks, Spoon. Maple Syrup ESB sounds phenomenal. Ruhlman also wrote that you can use maple syrup in your cure if you want a really sweet bacon, but I don’t know how much is too much. It does sound great, though. 😀

      Yeah, the smell of that bacon when it came off the smoker was pretty divine. I can’t wait to do another batch.

  6. Congratulations on curing your own bacon!! The end product looks amazing. I bet your house smelled damn good after frying it up!

    • Thank you! It did smell pretty damned sweet in the house when I cooked that first slice. And I left the fan over the oven off too, because I wanted the smell of MY bacon to permeate the place for as long as possible. It drove my cat crazy (she loves bacon).

  7. So where’s the sign up sheet for your How To Make Bacon Class? I am SO there! This wast a truly great read – mainly because you’re so passionate about your subject. Thoroughly enjoyed every word and image. And that bacon looks so, to borrow from Jo, f—ing good! Congrats on the accomplishment. This lowly reader hungrily looks forward to whatever you cure next. Bravo, Phil.

    • Hey Charles, the How To Make Bacon Class textbook can be purchased here. 🙂

      Ruhlman really did hit a home run explaining everything correctly in his book, and I would not recommend anyone try making bacon without reading it first. The use of Pink Salt in too high or too low a quantity can be harmful, so measurements of everything are key. It’s even more dangerous when you get into dry curing meats with nitrite. Botulism is brutal.

      Thanks for your comments. I really did have a fun time with this. It was the longest I’ve ever worked on a post – 12 days.

  8. Brother, you have finally done it. So far after moving down here I haven’t been homesick for US food until now. If there is one complaint I may voice of my food adventures in Brasil is you’re hard pressed to get a good slice of bacon. Seeing this and imagining the way it smells while frying and tastes (i imagined BLT-A) almost brought tears to my eyes. Beautiful! I’m going to be up there in a week for 12 days. Maybe you can spare a slice or two…… Love to see you and Kat when I’m in town.

    • Dude, I’m sure Brazil has a ton of bacon! It’s meat heaven down there, man.

      • Meat heaven but they don’t smoke the bacon. Just cured. What took my taste buds home was the apple wood smoke.

  9. ooooh spot on. my mouth is watering. I’ve been trying to find some lamb prosciutto and finally been trying to make my own. It’s not as easy as it seems. Thanks for sharing your method, i have to give this a try (when it stops raining) ;oP

    • Thank you Jackie! Please let us know how the lamb prosciutto turns out. That sounds incredible. You’re far braver than I!

  10. Wow, Sorry I finished so soon. That looks great, one question though; In most of the pictures it looked like the rind was removed. Was it?

    Being here in Germany I was trying to figure out what the equivalent of pink salt was, I found it and got some today from the local butcher. I will soon be off to buy some belly. The one you have there looks like it was marbled perfectly.

    Kirk

    • Hey Kirk

      Thanks for checking out my post. I’m stoked that you’re going to try this yourself! Please let us know how it turns out!

      I purchased the slab of belly just like that. There was no rind on it, just a nice layer of fat. It’s a great piece of belly. Oddly enough, when I checked Whole Foods and had the butcher show me belly from those pigs, it was incredibly thin, and had higher fat-to-meat ratio. I’m sure the flavor would be great from that belly, but it didn’t look nearly as substantial as the belly I was able to score at the Asian market.

      The pink salt I bought was Instacure #1 from Sausage Maker (contains Nitrite).

      Keep in touch!

  11. Phil
    Now that you have bacon, cook the bacon like this:
    http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2009/09/my-blt-from-scratch.html

    PLUS: You don’t have to worry about cutting thin slices
    NEGATIVE: You will run out of fresh cured bacon a lot faster
    PLUS: You now have an excuse to make more
    BIG PLUS: One of the best fucking things I have ever eatin

    • Yo, Brad — They should put that sandwich in a centerfold because I think I’m in love.

      Next time, fatter slices for sure. That’s sinful, and I have to have it. Thanks for the tip, and the link. My cardiologist sends his regards as well.

  12. I’m so glad I am taking a moment this morning (finally) with my Google Reader and seeing this post! I completely forgot to tell you how mindblowinglyfuckingAwesome this bacon was!!! For anyone wondering, Phil was gracious enough to send me home with about 5 slices and I cooked it the second I woke up. It was thick and meaty, just how I like it. Wow that sounds… ah fuck it, it’s true on every count! THANK YOU AGAIN! I will be the dog on my hands and knees begging for scraps the next time I find out you are making more. Yeah, I know how that sounds too, but I really don’t care!

    • Bob, that was the funniest commentary ever! 🙂 I’m really glad you liked the bacon, and the next time we get together I’ll definitely hit you with more. I have more bellies on the cure now – one sweet and one savory. Interested to see how the savory bacon tastes.

      You’re a funny man (and a good friend). Cheers!!

  13. […] Read about the bacon process here […]

  14. Hold on…..I’m catching my breath…ok this year I used my garden to make black raspberry jam, sweet pickles (I had to augment with store bought cucumbers) sweet-hot jabanero pickles, sauerkraut, pumpkin pie and seeds and this winter will give up plenty red gravy. I am going to make bacon as my next project, thanks for the post and I will buy the book. BTW got pointed here from reading My Blog N’at http://www.douglasderda.com/blog/

    • Thanks Hutch. That was a really nice post Doug wrote. He’s a good friend.

      Your jams and pickles sound great! I love hearing stories like this. It’s great when we can do sustainable things like growing our own food, then sharing it with everyone. Making bacon has been one of the coolest things I’ve done all year, and I’ve done a lot of cool things this year.

      If you do it, come back here and let us know how it turns out! Thanks again for your comments.


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